Painting Brick
Painting brick is the process of coating brick masonry with breathable primer and paint to change its color, seal minor defects, and update the look of a home. Yes, you can paint brick — but because paint on brick is effectively permanent and can trap moisture in the wall, the decision deserves more thought than most exterior painting projects. Done correctly with a masonry primer and a vapor-permeable topcoat, painted brick can last 15–20 years between repaints; done wrong, it peels, spalls the brick face, and cannot be easily undone.
Should You Paint Brick?
Brick is a porous, breathable material. It absorbs rainwater and releases it as vapor. Standard latex house paint forms a film over the surface, and if that film is not permeable enough, moisture trapped inside the brick will push the coating off (peeling and bubbling) or, in freeze-thaw climates, pop the brick face off entirely (spalling).
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Dramatic, modern update for dated brick | Effectively permanent — stripping paint from brick costs $5–$15 per sq ft and rarely restores the original look |
| Hides mismatched patches, repairs, and stains | Reduces breathability; wrong paint traps moisture and causes spalling |
| Adds a sacrificial protective layer against weathering | Ongoing maintenance: repaint every 10–20 years, forever |
| Cheaper than re-cladding or replacing brick | Can lower resale appeal for buyers who want natural brick |
| Wide color choice via any paint color | Efflorescence and hairline mortar cracks telegraph through |
Never paint brick that is less than a year old (unspent lime causes adhesion failure), brick with active moisture problems, or historic soft brick fired before roughly 1900, which depends on breathability to survive.
Choosing the Right Coating
The single biggest factor in a successful brick paint job is permeability, measured in "perms." Aim for coatings rated above 10 perms on exterior brick.
- Mineral (silicate) paint — potassium-silicate paints chemically bond to masonry rather than forming a film. Permeability is excellent (25+ perms), lifespan 15–20 years, cost $60–$100 per gallon. The best long-term choice for exterior brick.
- Elastomeric masonry coating — thick (10–20 mil) flexible acrylic that bridges hairline cracks and sheds water. Good for previously painted or cracked brick, but lower permeability (2–10 perms depending on product); apply only to dry walls. Roughly $40–$70 per gallon, covers only 50–75 sq ft per gallon.
- 100% acrylic masonry paint — standard choice for interior brick and mild climates. Use flat or low-sheen finishes; gloss highlights every mortar irregularity.
- Avoid oil-based paint on brick — near-zero permeability and it saponifies against alkaline masonry.
Always prime bare brick with an alkali-resistant masonry primer (acrylic or silicate, matched to the topcoat). Fresh masonry can have a pH of 12–13, which burns through ordinary primer.
Preparation
Surface Preparation is 70% of the job on brick:
- Wash the brick with a garden hose and stiff nylon brush, or a pressure washer at no more than 1,500 PSI held 12+ inches away. Higher pressure erodes mortar and soft brick.
- Kill mildew with a 1:3 bleach-water solution; rinse thoroughly.
- Remove efflorescence (white powdery salts) by dry-brushing; if it returns within a week, you have a moisture problem that must be fixed before painting.
- Repoint failing mortar joints and let new mortar cure 28 days. Fill hairline gaps at windows and trim with masonry-rated caulk.
- Let the wall dry 24–48 hours after washing. Paint only when surface and air temperatures are 50–90°F — see Best Temperature for Painting.
Homes built before 1978 may have existing coatings containing lead paint; test before sanding or scraping, and follow safe work practices.
Application
Brick drinks paint. Budget one gallon per 100–150 sq ft for the first coat (versus 350–400 on smooth drywall) — run the numbers with How Much Paint Do I Need. Work primer into mortar joints with a thick-nap 3/4" to 1-1/4" roller or a masonry brush, or spray and backroll with an airless sprayer as you would for stucco. Two topcoats over primer is standard. Respect the recoat window on the can — see Paint Drying Time.
Professional cost runs $1.50–$4.50 per sq ft, or roughly $3,500–$10,000 for an average two-story brick house; compare against other projects in How Much Does Painting Cost or get bids using How to Hire a Painter.
Limewash and German Schmear Alternatives
If permanence worries you, two traditional finishes give brick a softened, aged look while staying fully breathable:
- Limewash is slaked lime and water brushed onto damp brick. It calcifies into the surface, is completely vapor-permeable, costs $30–$60 per 5-gallon batch, and — crucially — can be removed with a pressure washer within the first several weeks if you hate it. It wears gracefully at edges rather than peeling, and needs renewal every 5–7 years. Search interest in "limewash brick" has overtaken solid-painted brick for good reason: it is the lowest-risk way to whiten brick.
- German schmear (mortar wash) is wet mortar smeared over the brick and partially wiped back, leaving an irregular, old-world texture. It is permanent, adds real material to the wall, and costs $1,500–$4,500 for a typical facade if professionally applied.
Both are hand-applied, forgiving techniques well within reach of a patient DIY weekend.
Painting an Interior Brick Fireplace
Interior brick — accent walls, fireplaces — is lower-risk because it is not weather-exposed. For the firebox surround and any brick within about 12 inches of the opening, use paint rated for at least 200°F; for the firebox interior itself, only high-heat coatings rated 1,200°F+ (usually a heat-rated spray paint) will survive. Clean soot completely with TSP substitute first — soot bleeds through ordinary paint and requires a stain-blocking primer. Mask the mantel and floor carefully (Masking and Taping) and cut in the mortar lines with an angled sash brush (Cutting In).
Common Mistakes
- Using interior wall paint or oil-based paint instead of a breathable masonry system.
- Skipping masonry primer on bare, high-pH brick.
- Painting damp brick — after rain, washing, or over active efflorescence.
- Pressure washing above 1,500 PSI and blowing out mortar joints.
- Painting brick younger than 12 months old.
- Ignoring the source of moisture (failed gutters, missing weep holes, grade sloping toward the wall) and blaming the paint when it peels.
- Using regular paint on a firebox instead of 1,200°F-rated high-heat coating.
- Under-buying paint because coverage estimates assumed smooth walls.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you paint brick, or is it a bad idea?
You can paint brick, and millions of homes have painted brick that performs well. It becomes a bad idea when the wrong product is used: brick must breathe, so use a mineral (silicate) paint or a quality acrylic masonry system over masonry primer, never oil-based or interior paint. Also treat it as a permanent decision — removal is expensive and rarely complete.
Is it better to limewash or paint brick?
Limewash is better if you want a breathable, low-risk, weathered European look and can accept renewing it every 5–7 years; it can even be washed off early if you change your mind. Paint is better if you want a uniform, opaque, modern color that lasts 15–20 years. Limewash also costs less in materials.
How long does paint last on exterior brick?
A properly prepped and primed acrylic masonry system typically lasts 10–15 years outdoors, and mineral silicate paints 15–20 years or more. Failures before year five almost always trace to trapped moisture or skipped primer rather than the paint itself.
What kind of paint do you use on a brick fireplace?
For the surrounding brick, an indoor acrylic masonry or latex paint over stain-blocking primer works fine. Any brick within about a foot of the firebox opening should get paint rated to at least 200°F, and the firebox interior requires a high-heat coating rated 1,200°F or higher.
Do you need to prime brick before painting?
Yes. Bare brick is porous and highly alkaline, so an alkali-resistant masonry primer is essential for adhesion and even color. One coat of primer plus two topcoats is the standard system; skipping primer is the most common cause of early peeling on brick.
